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May

We’ll Always Have Paris

by Meredith Mullins on May 4, 2020

We’ll always have Paris.
© Meredith Mullins

Travel Inspiration in Times of Change

“We’ll always have Paris,” said Humphrey Bogart, melting hearts as he stood on the Casablanca tarmac and said a final goodbye to Ingrid Bergman.

That memorable film line became a metaphor for a cherished time that remains in memory no matter what the future brings. Such a thought seems particularly relevant now . . . in times of COVID.

Those of us who live in Paris—or who seek travel inspiration from the City of Light—take these words literally and metaphorically. We will always have Paris.

As Hemingway said, Paris stays with you.
© Meredith Mullins

We have its history, monuments, artistic pulse, café charms, fine cuisine, lush gardens, haute couture, open markets, cobblestone streets, romantic bridges, and delicate light. The memories are alive.

Visions of Paris stay in our memory.
© Meredith Mullins

But change is one of those life constants. At the moment, for our own health and the safety and health of our fellow humans, we in Paris are in confinement. We are allowed to venture out for one hour a day, and our path is limited within one kilometer of home.

These regulations, now in the seventh week, inspire self-reflection and a change of life rhythms, with almost-daily “Oh, I See” moments.

Two questions rise to prominence.

  • What do I miss about Paris during confinement, even though I’m here?
  • What new discoveries have I made because I have had to change my way of life?

The magnificence of Paris gardens in years past (Jardins des Bagatelles)
© Meredith Mullins

Five Things I Miss About Paris During Confinement

 

1. The Arrival of Spring

The confinement orders came just as spring was beginning its burst. No matter what the winter weather, spring always arrives right on schedule at the end of March. Buds open and fill the air with remembrances of past springs. Barren trees become leafy in a visible fast-motion timelapse.

Memories of past springs, with vibrant color in all parts of the city
© Meredith Mullins

This year, the famed Paris gardens and parks were off limits, so my vision of spring was realized with the few blossoming trees or sprouting flowers within my Île Saint-Louis neighborhood.

A purple paulownia peeks through from the closed Square Barye
on the Île Saint-Louis—a reminder that spring is here.
© Meredith Mullins

Still, with so many sunny days in a row, there was no doubt that spring had arrived.

A moment of spring on the west end of the Île Saint-Louis
© Meredith Mullins

2. Music . . . Everywhere

On most days in pre-COVID Paris, I didn’t have to walk far before I heard a musician. The street artists are in the long metro tunnels, under historic arches, and on the romantic bridges.

Musicians are part of the fabric of street life in Paris.
© Meredith Mullins

Now, the streets are silent, except for an occasional balcony musician, decibel-heightened radio, or pianist practicing at home, the sound muffled through the walls.

An echo of muted music
© Meredith Mullins

The world is eerily quiet. Don’t get me wrong, I love the quiet. But the world needs the universal power of music.

Missing music in the streets of Paris
© Meredith Mullins

3. The Cast of Characters

Who would have thought that I would miss the crowded metros and buses of daily life in Paris? But I do.

Could I really be missing the crowded metros and buses?
© Meredith Mullins

The long rides were my time for random thoughts and endless character study. The cast of characters is diverse—every face holds a story.

The fascinating faces of the Paris metro
© Meredith Mullins

Now, I just watch the empty buses zooming by, keeping to their schedules. And, for reasons I can’t quite explain, I try to remember the varied (mostly less than noble) smells of the metro since I haven’t been underground for months.

Bus drivers are well protected on the nearly empty buses.
© Meredith Mullins

4. Café Life

Café life is the heartbeat of Paris. You meet friends. You stop at undiscovered cafés when you’re wandering. You dash in for coffee at a zinc counter or linger at a terrasse table while reading Proust or writing poetry. It’s just what you do.

Café life—the heartbeat of Paris
© Meredith Mullins

Now, I look at the stacked chairs and the closed curtains and wonder  . . . when.

Le Lutetia on the Île Saint-Louis: temporarily closed for business
© Meredith Mullins

5. The Art of the Flâneur

The concept of aimless wandering is a part of Paris culture. Many writers have mentioned its infinite rewards. Getting lost to find new paths and hidden treasures is one of the best ways to explore Paris.

The art of Paris wandering offers endless treasures.
© Meredith Mullins

At the moment, we cannot wander too far. Next week, we will be given more range to roam, but any kind of expedition must still be done with caution, not with full-fledged freedom. It will be a while before the art of the flâneur will return in free-spirited form.

Many undiscovered paths await the flâneur.
© Meredith Mullins

Five Things I Discovered During Confinement

Even living within the one kilometer confinement radius, the world continues to expand. Not just with the tsunami of internet culture, but with the new discoveries on the daily one-hour walk. Little by little, the world presents itself in new ways.

1. Taking the Time to See

I have discovered more about my Île Saint-Louis neighborhood during confinement than I have in the 15 years I have lived here.

Detail at #51 rue St Louis en l’Ile, one of the historic Hôtel Particuliers
© Meredith Mullins

Confinement time warp is a luxury. I have stopped to look at the door carvings, the plaques proclaiming personalities past who lived in this building or that, the historic streets and 400-year-old buildings, and the hidden courtyards and sculptures.

The St Genevieve statue on Pont de la Tournelle (by Paul Landowski, who was also the sculptor of the Rio de Janeiro Christ statue)
© Meredith Mullins

I had walked by these things many times, but I had never really stopped to see.

2. The Rhythms of the Neighborhood

Since I have spent every day at home, I have become more in tune with the rhythms of the neighborhood. I feel like an ancient settler, trying to predict the path of the moon or the movement of the tides by repetitive observation.

 

The regular rounds of the Republican Guard . . . but now on empty streets
© Meredith Mullins

Now, I know what times of day the Republican Guard clip clops along the island streets. I know when the grocers take their breaks. And I see the empty buses cruising by at the same times each day, since there is nothing to deter their schedule (no traffic and no delays for people climbing aboard).

Our ultra-safe Île Saint-Louis grocer Abdel
© Meredith Mullins

3. The Peace of Empty Streets

The cityscape changes when people are removed from the equation. Now, everything can be seen in its purest form . . . and in solitude.

The quiet of empty streets
© Meredith Mullins

4. Reflections on the Seine

The Seine river has been very quiet. There are few boats, so the surface is calm. The water so clean, you can see bottom.

It seems no one has ever seen the bottom of the Seine before.
It can be done.
© Meredith Mullins

As a result, the reflections dance in a whole new way.

Pont Louis-Philippe: Reflections on the Seine
© Meredith Mullins

5. The Taste of Berthillon

Last, but not least, I admit that I am slightly addicted to Berthillon ice cream, which is a tradition of the Île Saint-Louis. The main Berthillon store has been closed—deemed “nonessential” by the city.

However, last week, a window opened offering Berthillon ice cream cones. It was an odd sign that “normal” might not be too far away.

Berthillon is back! The light at the end of the tunnel.
© Meredith Mullins

To all the OIC Moments readers, stay safe, healthy, and sane. Travel inspiration can come in many forms during these challenging times. And, as you see . . . we’ll always have Paris.

Comment on this post below, or inspire insight with your own OIC Moment here.

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Art of Travel/France (Paris)

 
Comments:

30 thoughts on “We’ll Always Have Paris”

  1. Such a wonderful memory tour of Paris. I have been coming to Paris once or twice a year for decades. It gives me unending joy and beauty. Merci for sending these photos today.

    • I’m happy to have provided a memory tour, especially for someone who holds Paris in such regard. We certainly need joy and beauty in our lives at the moment. Paris is a good path.

      With best wishes,

      Meredith

  2. Meredith, by chance I came across your delightful article on my favorite part of Paris. Ile St Louis is simply magical. Since you have lived there 15 years I am wondering if by chance you ever met Micheline Fain who ran her boutique Les Insulaires for just short of 60 years. It was at 36 Rue St Louis en l’Ile, now a barber shop. She is on the cover of the book Notre Ile St Louis. Stay safe as life in Paris slowly resumes. Cheryl

    • Dear Cheryl,
      Thank you for writing … and I’m glad you came upon the story to bring back those Ile Saint-Louis memories. I do know the book on Ile Saint-Louis, and I remember the shop. But I’m sorry to say I did not know Micheline. So much changes on the island, even during my time here.

      Paris resumed with a force today. Lots of traffic and people out wandering. It will be more difficult to stay safe (and breathe fresh air), as so many go back to too normal a life. I imagine that is the challenge for all who are coming out of lockdown.

      All the best to you,

      Meredith

  3. I thank Adrian Leeds blog mentioning your article and I loved your vision of Paris where you live. While I have only been there a few times, I am so in love with this city. It takes my breath away, particularly your area. I so thank you for sharing.

    • Dear Liane,

      Thank you so much for taking the time to write. It sounds as if you have Paris in your heart, as I do (and as Adrian does). The city is unlike any other … and has certainly been unlike anything as we have worked through our “confinement” period. Today, was the first day of “deconfinement.” The streets came alive (as did the traffic) and the stores flung open their doors. But, as you say, the Ile St Louis is special and will always feel like an oasis.

      With best wishes,

      Meredith

  4. Dear Meredith, your photos and words capture the best of Paris, and your sharing is a wonderful gift. Next month will mark 60 years since I lived there, but through your images I remember the textures, the sounds, the faces I loved but will never see again. Thank you for the tears and smiles!

    • Hi Barbara,
      Thank you for your kind words. I know you carry Paris in your heart, just as I do. It is these heartfelt visions and memories that will get us through this challenging time.

      All best,

      Meredith

    • Hi Kai,

      It almost feels like rentrée. There is movement in the shops (behind closed doors and curtains). Even some movement in the restaurants (not sure what that’s about except they might be thinking about take out as a lead in to a June opening). A general feeling of anticipation. But I hope everyone will proceed with caution. It is not a LIBERATION, as in the U.S.

      Hope you can get back soon,

      Meredith

  6. Meredith, your eyes see the magical in the ordinary and your poetic words shine a light on it for the rest of us to appreciate. Paris is the perfect place to be during a “lockdown”…..or anytime for that matter. :-) Thank you for your musings. Stay safe, be well and I look forward to your next visit stateside, whoever that turns out to be.

    • Dear Karen,

      Thank YOU for your beautiful words. It is my pleasure to shine a light on such amazing places, especially during these difficult times. Although the state of the world at the moment is full of challenges of all kinds, it is important to find the beauty, wherever we need to look.

      Take care,

      Meredith

  7. What a wonderful retrospective, Meredith! I envy your Shelter in Place in my favorite city in the world. You indeed have the gift of photography, and have brought Paris in Quiet alive for me. Thanks! (We’ll let you know when we are there next!) Cheerio, Karen

    • Hi Karen,

      Thanks for writing. I hope all is well in your world. We both have good “sheltering” options I think, but it’s been a revelation to see our towns in this different light.

      Here’s hoping we see you in Paris in the not-too-distant future.

      All best,

      Meredith

  8. Beautiful photos, Meredith. I’m glad you get to see what the Ile Saint Louis is like sans tourists, even if we all hope to see life return to the city soon.

    • Hi Heather,

      I know this time is challenging for you and your excellent tour business, as well as for all the cafés, restaurants and small businesses. But don’t you love the quiet streets? Paris has become a village again.

      The Ile Saint-Louis has that feeling in the winter in normal times (and after about 10 pm). It’s just during the sunny summer ice cream season that things go a little wild.

      I have no doubt that we will return to normalcy one day in the not-too-distant future, but I hope we have learned something from the experience … and emerge a bit more human and focused on the important things in life.

      Take care. Stay safe. Deconfine with caution.

      Meredith

  9. I absolutely loved reading this! Thank you so much for sharing what you miss while “leaning in” to the here and now! Thank you!!!@

    • Dear Denise,

      Thank you so much for writing and for your kind words. I hope I have brought some Ile St-Louis to you virtually. We can all use some virtual travel these days … and an expanded world in the most poetic sense of the word.

      Take care.

      All best,
      Meredith

    • Thank you, Joyce. I think we both have traveler hearts, which allows for travel within any given space.

      Stay well,

      Meredith

  11. I so enjoyed this tour. It is hard to imagine how confined you are. At least here in the DC area we can wander to the many parks and paths within 5 miles and drink up the spring vegetation and colors. Let’s hope the virus cases continue to decline there and the opening continues. They are still increasing here yet “our leader” insists on reopening leaving us to protect ourselves.

    • Hi Carol,

      You’re lucky to have parks and paths. I was surprised here how a small world expanded, though, with so many details to explore.

      I share your hope that the virus cases will continue to decline. We have to be vigilant and aware that our actions affect others. A good lesson to learn.

      Stay safe,

      Meredith

  12. Thank you for this!!! And enjoy a Berthillon chocolate extra bitter sorbet for us!!
    It will probably be 2021 before we can return to our little bubble on the I’ile…Paris is always in the back of our minds….Jack and Nancy

    • Dear Jack and Nancy,

      The island is not the island when you’re not here. But, I am getting to know some of the other neighbors, as I see them every day on the one-hour walk. Who knew so many people lived here 🙂? Of course we did know this was celebrity central (Baudelaire, Marie Curie, Pompidou, Camille Claudel etc).

      Our little paradise.

      With best wishes,

      Meredith

  13. Such a beautiful article and photos. I love the positives. We’d be in Baran after our week long Viking River Wine Chateau cruise right now!! Maybe late summer.
    Love you Meredith.

    • Hi Suki,

      So sorry you are not in your “home away from home” at the moment. But you know it will always be waiting. Your other home is not too shabby. You (like me) have the best of two worlds.

      Wishing you the best,

      Meredith

  14. A lovely stroll through the Paris of our imagination! Makes me want to get on over in sink into Paris and let its magic wash over me….just as soon as this Covid storm blows over! (I haven’t walked those streets since 1970!). Thank you for the virtual vacation!

    • Dear Rick,

      Thank you for writing. Virtual travel is important now, isn’t it. Especially for wanderers like you and me. I’ll bet, though, your music takes you on a journey every day.

      With best wishes,

      Meredith

  15. Meredith,
    Your photos and comments were the first email I opened this morning and I can’t help but be positive after such a great start. We had planned to return to Paris in June but were beginning to wonder if it was a wise thing to do, but your photos make me want to say say “yes.”
    Iris

    • Bonjour Iris,

      I actually think it would be the ideal time to be in Paris, with the relatively empty streets. But, it’s unclear when the cafés, restaurants, gardens, and museums might open, so the usual rhythms will be disrupted.
      In the meantime, I’m glad I could provide a little sense of the city.

      With best wishes,

      Meredith

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