The Ta Prohm Temple, intentionally left in its natural state to show what explorers
found in the 19th century.
© Meredith Mullins

Lost Among the Ruins in One of the Most Amazing Places on Earth

Many years ago, I saw a photograph of a multi-rooted tree swallowing an ancient temple in one overgrown gulp.

For me, the siren’s call came through with haunting clarity. It was then and there—through a National Geographic image—that I knew I had to see these ruins, lost in the jungles of Cambodia. Even the name—Angkor Wat—exuded mystery.

Replicating my National Geographic memory.
Who will win this battle—the silk-cotton tree or the remnants of the Khmer Empire?
© Meredith Mullins

For some, the call might come through Lara Croft Tomb Raider (Angelina Jolie) racing through the crumbling Khmer temples.

For some, the call may be just from imagining the life of Indiana Jones or James Bond, moving through time and discovering ancient cities and lost civilizations.

Beng Melea Temple, devoured by nature . . . and time.
© Meredith Mullins

No matter how we become entangled, these past civilizations are worthy of discovery. They continue to amaze us with the intelligence and artistry of the creators.

Every wall tells a story (Banteay Srei Temple carving).
© Meredith Mullins

These cultures had no worldly knowledge. They had only random clues to the complex rhythms of the universe. And yet, these empires were so far advanced that they should not be “lost” at all. They should still be living strong.

Moving closer to heaven: Ascension to the gods (Angkor Wat)
© Meredith Mullins

Angkor . . . What?

Full disclosure—I always thought Angkor Wat was the whole city of temples. In fact, Angkor is the extensive metropolis, with roads, buildings, canals, and reservoirs—an area of more than 1000 square kilometers. Angkor is the Khmer word for “city.”

Angkor Wat, the largest of the Angkor temples
© Meredith Mullins

Angkor Wat is its crown jewel—the massive architectural and engineering triumph, built in the early 12^th Century during the reign of King Suryavarman II.

This temple was the center of the vast Khmer megacity, and was dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, since trade with India was a significant influence on the Khmer culture.

The bas-relief carvings of Angkor Wat show stories of battle, as well as daily life.
© Meredith Mullins

After King Suryavarman II and a period of instability, King Jayavarman VII came to power and proceeded on an ambitious 40-year building spree.

Gate (and moat) leading to King Jayavarman’s Angkor Thom
© Meredith Mullins

The Angkor Thom area of Jayavarman VII offers some of the most beautiful temples, such as Bayon and Ta Prohm. Jayavarman’s expansion project included more than 100 temples, as well as hospitals and housing across the empire. Jayavarman VII was also responsible for shifting the religious focus to Buddhism.

The Bayon Temple
Can you find the face(s) of King Jayavarman VII?
© Meredith Mullins

There are more than 1000 temples in the region. At the height of Angkor’s success (from the 11^th to 14^th centuries), it was the largest city in the world—home to nearly a million people and the capital of the mighty Khmer Empire.

What is believed to be King Jayavarman’s face looks out in four directions
over the vast Khmer Empire (Ta Prohm Temple).
© Meredith Mullins

It is still the largest religious monument on earth, although most of the temples have been abandoned to the jungle.

Angkor Wat today is a Buddhist temple and has been in continuous use as
a religious site since its origin, nearly 900 years ago.
© Meredith Mullins

It is believed that after the death of Jayavarman VII, climate conditions (first a long drought and then a period of flooding) destroyed the intricate water network, which made living conditions challenging. The golden age was over. The region was all but abandoned.

King Jayavarman’s Ta Prohm Temple, gobbled up by a Strangler Fig tree.
© Meredith Mullins

The Art of Rediscovery

European explorers and scientists rediscovered the temples in the mid 1800s. The history of the Khmer Empire was unearthed, along with information about the intricate building processes, the network of services provided, and the graphic depictions of everyday life and historic highlights.

Miles of carvings tell the stories of the past.
© Meredith Mullins

Restoration work began, but many of the historic relics were stolen or moved.

Headless statues—a result of human destruction (thieves who have stolen history)
© Meredith Mullins

More challenges remained. The war period from the 1960s prevented maintenance of the temples. The planting of land mines in the region also made the area dangerous.

The challenge of clearing the land mines
© Meredith Mullins

Only since the mid 1990s have the land mines been cleared and tourism encouraged. Now, a new challenge presents itself.

With millions of visitors each year, the limited water supply in the region and the fragility of the stone temples require a renewed vigilance. How can these treasures be protected?

The red sandstone of Banteay Srei Temple lends itself to intricate carvings.
© Meredith Mullins

A Link with the Past . . . and with the Future

The experts who are studying the Khmer culture and the history of these ancient empires feel the continual excitement of discovery.

As a restoration manager watches a sandstone block lifted into place through 21^st century technology, he marvels at how workers more than 800 years ago accomplished the same thing, but with much simpler tools. In fact, the Bayon Temple was built with 600,000 stone blocks— quarried by hand at a distance and transported to the Bayon site. Yet, they got it done.

The Bayon Temple, was made of 600,000 stone blocks, transported miles
from the quarry through water canals. An amazing 12th century feat.
© Meredith Mullins

As I climbed over ancient stones and followed the stories engraved for, literally, miles on the walls of the temples, I felt a part of the past.

Yes, I had been inspired to come to Cambodia by a photograph. But now, I could feel the warmth of the sandstone and the power of an empire.

When you’re climbing through ruins, alone in the jungle,
you can’t help but feel a part of the past (Beng Mealea Temple).
© Meredith Mullins

Visiting the past can be a rich “Oh, I see” moment.  Also rewarding, can be thinking of the future . . . and how best to preserve the amazing places on earth.

Looking to the past and to the future
© Meredith Mullins

Thank you to Hanuman Travel, a Cambodian based travel company, and to our guide Meas Dara Polrith (aka Paul) (who also taught Gordon Ramsey how to find tarantulas to fry). The trip was organized by Richard Murai and the nonprofit Center for Photographic Art.

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