The Île Saint-Louis: So many treasures lie within
© Meredith Mullins

Circumnavigating the Île Saint-Louis

How did a tiny island in the middle of the Seine river in Paris meet the challenges of pandemic wanderlust?

Defying Einstein, the less-than-one-square-kilometer area of the Île Saint-Louis seemed to expand during “confinement” to become an undiscovered universe.

My daily wanderings became a profound adventure during this time of sheltering, with a newfound appreciation of beauty in the details.

Wandering the quai in the silence of the evening
© Meredith Mullins

Exploring the Details

Travel inspiration comes in many forms. During the nearly two-month period of “confinement” in France, I sought out authentic virtual travel experiences and gripping travel writing to feed the need for exploration.

The north bank of the Île Saint-Louis
© Meredith Mullins

However, my real-life daily walks around the island were the highlight. We were limited to one hour outside, no more than one kilometer from home. These moments were the best part of the day.

In the first few weeks, I walked the island cautiously, circling the perimeter quais, feeling grateful to be allowed exercise in such trying times. I never even considered crossing a bridge to the “continent.”

Looking from the Île Saint-Louis toward the left bank of Paris (the “continent”)
© Meredith Mullins

Soon (around circling expedition Day 10), I started to channel the spirit of Magellan, seeking the adventure of new discoveries.

At circling expedition Day 20, I became an archeologist/historian, delving into the island’s past stories.

What stories were once hidden behind these rough-hewn doors?
© Meredith Mullins

And close to circling expedition Day 40, I began to wonder how I had missed all these hidden treasures after 15 years of walking these streets every day.

Oh, I see. We focus more when the distractions of daily life aren’t calling our attention. We can see the beauty in the details.

During my two months of circumnavigation, I had several island epiphanies. Here are five of those stories that I hope will give you a feeling of life on the Île Saint-Louis.

The Pont Marie, built in the 17th century, links the Île Saint-Louis with the right bank.
© Meredith Mullins

Two Islands into One

I would often tell visitors that the Île Saint-Louis was once called Île aux Vaches (Cow Island), because it was an island dedicated to grazing cows. However, I was a little fuzzy on the two-islands-into-one story.

Now I have learned that, prior to the 17^th century, the Île Saint-Louis was two islands—the Île Notre-Dame (used for court-ordered duels) and the Île aux Vaches.

In 1614, the canal between the two islands was filled in and the island became the Île Saint-Louis, part of an urban plan where three developers would build out the island with 120 hôtel particuliers (elegant mansion residences) in a unified style of architecture.

Several of the main residences from that era remain, but only a few are similar to their original state.

The Hôtel Bretonvilliers was one of the two largest mansions on the island
in the 17th century. Only the pavillion remains today.
© Meredith Mullins

Once I learned that rue Poulletier was where a canal separated the two islands, I walk that street like a tightrope over an imaginary abyss, hoping the structure will hold.

The rue Poulletier is the dividing line between the two historic islands
that now make up the Île Saint-Louis.
© Meredith Mullins

So Many Doors . . . So Little Time

Every door in Paris is an invitation to imagine what lies beyond. And in the world of the Île Saint-Louis, the doors from the 17^th and 18^th century are no exception. They are masterpieces of art and design.

For the first time, I noticed the door of the Hôtel Lefebvre de la Malmaison at 22 Quai de Bethune, a typical door of the 17^th century. As an added bonus, Baudelaire lived here from 1842 to 1843.

A typical 17th century door at the Hôtel Lefebvre de la Malmaison (#22 Quai de Bethune),
once the home of Baudelaire.
© Meredith Mullins

The Hôtel de Chenizot, once the residence of the archbishop of Paris, also has a historic entrance. The exuberant rococo carvings add a bit of theatre to the rue Saint-Louis en l’Île and belie the quiet courtyard within.

Ornate carvings at the Hôtel Chenizot (#51 rue Saint-Louis en l’Île), inspiring the imagination
as to what lies within
© Meredith Mullins

At #24 Quai de Bethune, I spent almost my full hour one day admiring the carriage doors, carved by sculptor Etienne le Hongre. They have been preserved from the original Hôtel Hesselin designed by Louis Le Vau. This house was also where French President Pompidou lived from 1969 to 1974.

Intricately carved 17th century doors at 24 Quai de Bethune
(also once the residence of French President Georges Pompidou)
© Meredith Mullins

Corners of Interest: It’s Always Good to Look Up

Looking up at street corners became a fascination during my circular walks. Two corners, in particular, caught my eye.

At the corner of rue Le Regrattier and Quai de Bourbon is a strange headless sculpture and the remnants of an ancient street sign that named the street the rue de la Femme-sans-tête (“Woman without a Head” street). The story of the headless woman is still a mystery, although some say it’s actually a beheaded Saint Nicolas (making the street name the true mystery).

The street of the “woman without a head”
© Meredith Mullins

On rue Budé near the corner of Quai d’Orléans is a sculpture honoring the birthplace of the poet Felix Arvers, who was most noted for his heart-wrenching sonnet of unrequited love. Once you know his history, it’s hard to pass that corner without thinking of romance.

My soul its secret has, my life too has its mystery,
A love eternal in a moment’s space conceived

A tribute to poet Felix Arvers at the corner of rue Budé and Quai d’Orléans
© Meredith Mullins

A Celebrity Cornucopia

Although the Île Saint-Louis is often called ice cream island because of the presence of the famous Berthillon ice cream on almost every street, the island has a rich history of famous people seeking solace here.

A celebrity in its own right: Berthillon ice cream
© Meredith Mullins

From Baudelaire to Marie Curie, from Pont-Aven artist Emile Bernard to composer Frédéric Chopin, from French President Georges Pompidou to contemporary actors and musicians, the island has called to many as a quiet village in the center of a city.

My slow exploration of the island provided time to read all the historic plaques and learn more about who lived where.

Camille Claudel lived and worked at #19 Quai de Bourbon.
© Meredith Mullins

Two of the main island mansions were particular magnets for the famous.

The Hôtel de Lauzun (17 Quai d’Anjou) hosted a famous hashish club, for artists and writers in the mid 19^th century—an oasis of creativity protected from everyday reality.

Hôtel de Lauzun (#17 Quai d’Anjou)
© Meredith Mullins

Here, Baudelaire was able to live his goal of having no other occupation than to “go on the path towards happiness” and to share that goal with his fellow club members, including Balzac, Gautier, and Delacroix.

Nothing says hashish club like a gilded balcony.
© Meredith Mullins

The Hôtel Lambert (#2 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile) was home to or hosted, among others, Chopin, George Sand, Delacroix, Voltaire, the Rothchilds, and, now, a Qatar Sheikh.

The Hôtel Lambert at the east end of the Île Saint-Louis has been home to many people of note.
© Meredith Mullins

A Variety of Vistas

The Île Saint-Louis feels to me like the soul of Paris. I would not want to live anywhere else.

The Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) from the Pont Saint-Louis
© Meredith Mullins

As I wandered during the sunny spring days and warm silent nights, I was reminded how much I can see from my island home—Notre Dame, the Panthéon, the Eiffel Tower, the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), the Tour Saint-Jacques, the Église Saint-Gervais-Saint-Protais, the Jussieu University tower, and the Institute du Monde Arabe.

The Panthéon is visible from the Île Saint-Louis.
© Meredith Mullins

The Seine River is ever present. And the island’s five bridges are a constant source of inspiration, from an artistic perspective as well as from a standpoint of inviting adventures on the “mainland” in all directions.

Pont Louis-Philippe
© Meredith Mullins

There was a silver lining to confinement. I am thankful for travel inspiration, mixed with the luxury of time, that led me to explore the beauty of the details and history of my neighborhood. The reward—I now feel even more at home on the Île Saint-Louis.

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