The Pushkar Camel Fair
© Meredith Mullins

Travel Adventures in Rajasthan

The naïve traveler might say that if you’ve seen one camel fair, you’ve seen them all.

Not true.

Those looking for real travel adventures know that there is no such thing as too many camel fairs, especially when it comes to one of the largest camel fairs in the world. The Pushkar ka Mela is different.

A bounty of color 
© Meredith Mullins

The annual Pushkar festival in Rajasthan, India, is the ultimate blend of camels, dust, color, cattle, horses, music, smoke and spice, camel bling, acrobats, more dust, snake charmers, dancers, temple bells, more camels, carnival rides, competitions, and endless market stalls.

The mela has the added layer, however, of also being a sacred pilgrimage site.

The dusty camps of the camel traders
© Meredith Mullins

Entering an Ancient and Timeless Land

Tales of Pushkar are legendary. The name alone has the magic of another era—the land of the ancient Silk Road, when the wandering trade routes brought multiple civilizations together.

For me, making the journey to Pushkar for last week’s mela transported heart and mind quickly into another world—primitive and exotic.

More than 50,000 camels arrive in this small town each autumn for trade and show, timed with the October/November full moon.

Pushkar camels strutting their stuff at sunset
© Meredith Mullins

More than 300,000 visitors—villagers, desert dwellers, westerners, pilgrims, and sadhus (Hindu ascetics)—come to Pushkar for the festival. They walk for days from remote corners of the desert, ride their animals, or squeeze themselves into overcrowded vehicles to reach their destination.

The more the merrier . . . on to Pushkar.
© Meredith Mullins

The flow of people into town is almost as interesting as the festival itself. You can feel the excitement building as these disparate currents converge.

The Sacred Lake

The lake at the center of the city was said to have been formed in the 4^th century B.C. (or even earlier) in this barren region when a lotus flower petal fell from the hand of Lord Brahma, the god of creation.

The sacred Pushkar lake, surrounded by temples and pilgrims paying homage to this holy site.
© Meredith Mullins

This legendary event makes the lake not only a miracle in religious lore but also a sacred destination for devout Hindus. They come to pray at any of the 500 temples (including one of the few temples in India dedicated solely to Brahma). And they come to purify themselves in the sacred waters.

According to Hindu tradition, bathing in the holy lake during the full moon (called the Kartik Poornima) washes away all sins. And for the men who can’t make it, if their wife bathes, the purification extends to them as well.

Weaving Faith and Trade Together

For nearly two weeks, faith and trading come together in one lively festival. The fair begins with the livestock trading. The tents and evening fires of the traders reach into the edges of the desert.

At night, you hear the murmur of the camps and the low moans of the camels as the dust of the day settles and the cold air moves in from the Aravalli hills.

Camel haute couture
© Meredith Mullins

By day, the camels show off their haute camel couture. Woven and beaded saddles and jackets, necklaces that seem to go on forever (well-suited for those long camel necks), and the traditional red nose ball that makes them look even more comical than they already do.

The traditional red nose ball (kept dry at the ole watering hole)
© Meredith Mullins

These bizarre divas are reminiscent of Star Wars creatures, with a dash of dinosaur and giraffe. As you wander through the maze of humps, you quickly come to realize that these exotic characters are averse to doing anything that isn’t their own idea (or anything that isn’t related to chewing).

As the livestock fair gains momentum, the pilgrims begin to flow into town. Their earthtone clothes, with highlights of orange and yellow bring life to the dusty brown of the fair. And their steady, silent gazes penetrate deeply, linking soul to soul.

Hindu pilgrims walking to the sacred Pushkar Lake for morning prayer and bathing
© Meredith Mullins

The pilgrims gather around the lake every morning to bathe and pray, as the carnival noise rises in the distance. Their joy at being at this sacred site rivals the fairground fun, in a different way.

Camel Races, Turban Tying, and Mustaches (Oh My!)

Amidst the sacred atmosphere, the fairgrounds offer a variety of events—camel races, cricket matches, and the turban tying and mustache competitions.

Hopeful mustache competition contenders
© Meredith Mullins

It’s hard not to be drawn in by the mustache competition. The staches look elegant and dignified and then the unfurling begins. Guinness World Records, here we come.

A mustache victory
© Meredith Mullins

“Oh, I See” Moments: Too Many To Count

The sensory stimulation of the Pushkar mela is overwhelming . . . not to mention the pressure of trying to decide which camel to take home.

More importantly, the spiritual feeling from the pilgrims seems to bring the world a bit closer together.

Pilgrim blessings
© Meredith Mullins

The daytime desert heat and dust is brutal. After a few days, it was time to move on to the more travel adventures.

I was disappointed to miss the pilgrims’ mass bathing, which takes place at the end of the festival during the full moon. I can only imagine the visual and spiritual impact of thousands of pilgrims swimming in the lake, lit only by moonlight.

I was, however, filled with the beauty of the desert—the sounds and smells of an ancient time and the joy of a festival where faith and community prevail.

And I know I will return  . . . because I did not yet select my camel.

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