The Paris Pigeon Man
© Meredith Mullins

Adding Layers to Traveling Stories

Every city has its celebrity characters, from the naked cowboy in New York’s Times Square to the ragged beggar in Bucharest, who spends his day asking for money and then gives it all to the local church.

Finding these characters, by chance or by design, adds adventure to one’s traveling stories.

Every city has their celebrity characters, making traveling stories much more interesting.
© iStock/Don Miller

Paris is no exception. You can meet an interesting personality on almost every street corner or in the winding metro tunnels—from mimes to musicians, immobile human statues to fire breathers, sidewalk artists to puppeteers.

A cast of characters for your traveling stories
© Meredith Mullins

They are a provocative part of a culture. And each has a story to tell, if you take time to travel to the next layer.

I have met many of these characters in my travels as a flâneuse (wanderer) in Paris. I had coffee with my juggler friend, as he carefully balanced his goldfish bowl during our rendez-vous, and showed me the “shelf” on his head from carrying bundles as a child in Africa. Very helpful for now balancing his goldfish while juggling.

Balance is everything.
© Meredith Mullins

I spent years wanting to photograph Stevan, the Montmartre portrait artist, finally succeeding when I took the time to get to know him. He wanted the simple respect of a conversation rather than the usual way of passing tourists whom he felt tried to photograph him like “an animal in a zoo.”

All of these encounters have enriched my life and taught me lasting life lessons.

Stevan, the Montmartre portrait artist
© Meredith Mullins

Introducing a New Character: The Pigeon Man

Recently, I was inspired to find out more about one of the Paris street celebrities known as The Pigeon Man.

I was reading Craig Carlson’s new book, Let Them Eat Pancakes, where he introduces us to several of the more interesting people in Paris (as well as the idiosyncrasies of French life that often stump or surprise folks from another culture).

Craig is an American in Paris, most well known for bringing a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon, and pancakes to Paris through his two American diners.

The Pigeon Man (aka Giuseppe) came into Craig’s life years ago when he “moved into” Craig’s neighborhood. In this scenario, becoming a neighbor meant parking his van (which served as his home) near the front door of Craig’s building. It also meant bringing hundreds of hungry pigeons to the buildings and streets of the neighborhood as he set up his daily feeding routine.

The pigeon van—all pigeons welcome.
© Meredith Mullins

Problem Solving a Pigeon Dilemma

In an intelligent integration of American and French mediation strategies, Craig and his French partner Julien, tried at first to reason with Giuseppe in support of the cleanliness and sanity of the neighborhood.

When that failed, they sought the help of their building supervisor, who provided more of Giuseppe’s story, noting he was a retired Italian accountant who had emigrated to Paris.

Giuseppe, an Italian who emigrated to France, is living an important chapter of his life.
© Meredith Mullins

The supervisor also noted that several attempts to move Giuseppe’s van from the neighborhood had failed.

Strike Two.

The next step for Craig and Julien was to prepare a dossier with a collection of evidence for the complaint and to file that with the police. After all, it is illegal to feed pigeons in Paris.

In fact, due to the growing pigeon population, Paris was making attempts to limit the pigeon population in several creative ways, including releasing birds of prey and disrupting the pigeon egg laying cycle.

A Paris debate: are there too many pigeons in the City of Light?
© Meredith Mullins

After Craig became annoyingly persistent with his follow-up calls about the dossier, the police finally came to the neighborhood. They confessed the frank reality that they could not tow Giuseppe’s van because it was his home; and, while they could arrest him, he would be “back home” in a few days . . . as would his pigeons.

Strike Three.

Craig and Julien conceded the war and moved to a new apartment.

A man on a mission: the Paris Pigeon Man walks toward the feeding spot at the Pompidou Center.
© Meredith Mullins

On to the Pompidou

Ironically, some time later, Giuseppe moved on also. His van now sits near the Pompidou Center in central Paris, and each day he feeds his pigeon friends at the corner of the museum’s esplanade.

A center of attention
© Meredith Mullins

He clearly loves his birds. He becomes one of the flock, a source of sustenance in the calm eye of a hurricane of flapping wings. He is a stable provider.

You know this immediately as you see the pigeons starting to mobilize slightly before the rhythmic feeding times. How do they sense that Giuseppe is coming? Who knows? But they do.

The pigeons eagerly anticipate the Pigeon Man’s arrival.
© Meredith Mullins

Even though Giuseppe is bent over from a broken back, he spreads cereal with the flair of a choreographed dancer and even provides a sip of water for the birds after they have gobbled up the meal.

The feeding dance
© Meredith Mullins

Oh, I see. To the average eye, Giuseppe might look like another Paris SDF (sans domicile fixe—without a fixed residence). But he has found a purpose. His job is to take care of Paris pigeons. And he spends his days doing just that. He is a true believer that animals and humans should practice mutual respect.

A thoughtful drink of water after the meal
© Meredith Mullins

The Pigeon Spectrum

You might love pigeons or find them annoying.

You might say they deserve it when a child stomps into a cluster of pigeons who are minding their own business or you might wish the child’s parent would remind him or her that such behavior is cruel.

You might find their soft cooing soothing or you might wish they would sleep in rather than wake you at dawn from a blissful slumber.

The freedom to fly
© Meredith Mullins

You might wish them well, but hope that their home is not anywhere near your home.

On whichever side of the pigeon spectrum you fall, you can’t help but appreciate that Giuseppe has found a purpose that brings him happiness. That’s all anyone can ask of life.

Read about more Paris characters in Craig Carlson’s book, Let Them Eat Pancakes, which can be found in Paris English-Language bookstores or on Amazon.

If you’re in Paris, Craig will be at the Abbey Bookshop on September 18 at 6:30 pm for a book signing event (with pancakes and wine).

Comment on this post below.