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Jun

Oradour-sur-Glane: A Story Stopped in Time and Memory

by Meredith Mullins on June 26, 2018

Rusted out cars in front of a burned out building in Oradour sur Glane, France, the site of the cultural history of a Nazi massacre during WW II. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The sobering story of the Nazi obliteration of an entire village
© Meredith Mullins

A Moment of WW II Cultural History that Should Not Be Forgotten

I knew the “Oh, I see” Moment would be memorable. The lump in my throat began to build long before I got close to Oradour-sur-Glane.

As the green of the Limousin countryside flew by and the road signs of well-known World War II French villages came and went, I was in full time-travel mode back to June 1944 . . . filled with a gut-wrenching sadness.

Horses grazing in Oradour-sur-Glane, a village that was an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The peaceful village of Oradour-sur-Glane, near Limoges, France
© Meredith Mullins

Time Travel to World War II

In France, the month of June delivers us back to memories of WW II. The D-Day landings were a dramatic turning point in the war. June 6 continues to live vividly in history. Many brave souls fought—and died—to change the destiny of the free world.

Just four days later, another brutal and emotional event took place. A Nazi regiment (Waffen SS) heading north to Normandy massacred the men, women, and children in the village of Oradour-sur-Glane. Only a few survivors lived to tell the story.

Main street of Oradour-sur-Glane, with ruined buildings, part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The main street of the village today
© Meredith Mullins

The Story of Oradour-sur-Glane

When I learned about Oradour, it was as if I’d been given a mission. I wanted to tell the story for those who didn’t know—as a reminder of the consequences of hatred and war. (Although almost every French person knows the story, many non-French do not.)

The village patisserie in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The village patisserie (pastry shop)
© Meredith Mullins

I also knew I had to visit the village, which, at de Gaulle’s direction, has been kept exactly as it was on that tragic day. A memorial to the innocent martyrs—victims of an unimaginable and savage slaughter.

The dressmaker's shop in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The dressmaker’s shop
© Meredith Mullins

A Town Full of Life

During the war, people came to Oradour from the surrounding cities and villages because of its peaceful nature . . . to picnic, to fish, to spend an afternoon in the quiet of the country.

There were hotels, cafés, and restaurants, as well as the daily life of a thriving working village. There was even a commuter tram line to Limoges.

Café in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

One of many cafés
© Meredith Mullins

Although Oradour was a part of occupied France, it was a welcoming town that seemed relatively untroubled by the stresses of occupation.

Tram station of Oradour-sur-Glane, part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The tram station
© Meredith Mullins

Oradour’s Destiny

All that changed on June 10, 1944. The Waffen SS regiment surrounded the town. They emptied the houses and businesses one by one and herded everyone to the main square. They said it was a simple identity check. Nothing indicated imminent danger.

The center of Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The Germans herded everyone in the village to the center of town, under the
guise of checking identity papers.
© Meredith Mullins

They separated the women and children from the men and led them away. Some of the more trusting men thought the women and children were being taken to a safer place. Some, however, sensed that the glances they shared with their loved ones—as families were split apart—were meaningful final moments.

The Fate of the Men

The men were divided into six groups and taken to barns and garages throughout the village. Soldiers and machine guns kept each of the groups under control.

Metal debris in a garage in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A garage where one of the six groups of men was taken
© Meredith Mullins

The men had no reason to believe they would be harmed. The Germans said they were searching for weapons caches in each house, and the men knew they would not find any.

Just an hour after the separation of the men and women and children, an explosion was heard—a preplanned signal for the regiment.

Laudy's barn in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Remains of the Laudy barn
© Meredith Mullins

The soldiers fired on the men at all six locations. It happened quickly. Every man was killed, except for six survivors at the Laudy barn, who pretended to be dead. One of these men was later shot.

The Germans then set fire to the buildings. The survivors of the Laudy barn escaped through a small door in the back of the barn.

The village church in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The village church
© Meredith Mullins

The Fate of the Women and Children

When the women and children were separated from the men, they were led to the village church. They, too, had no reason to believe they would be harmed.

However, when the regiment signal sounded, the soldiers guarding the women and children ignited explosives, which engulfed the church in smoke and flames.

Church confessional in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Two children sought refuge in the church confessional. They did not survive.
© Meredith Mullins

Every woman and child was burned to death, except for Madame Rouffanche who, under cover of all the smoke in the church, hoisted herself through a high window above the altar and fell to the ground below. Wounded, she crawled to a garden where she hid until the next day when help arrived.

Church interior in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Once sacred, it was here that the women and children were gathered and burned.
© Meredith Mullins

The Brutality of War

After this merciless massacre, the SS regiment set fire to every building in the town.

In a few short hours, Oradour lost every trace of its families and its history—without ever knowing why.

Flowers at the Oradour-sur-Glane memorial, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

The memorial tribute continues.
© Meredith Mullins

The few survivors were able to piece together many of the details of this tragic story. However, the conclusion is irrefutable—642 men, women, and children died that day . . . for no reason.

A memorial to the Bardet family in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Oradour lost its families.
© Meredith Mullins

Visiting the Memorial

As I walked through the ruins of the village, I imagined the voices of people in the cafés, the garages, the schools, the hairdressers, the blacksmiths, and the grocery stores.

The girls school in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

All the teachers and girls from the girls’ school were taken to the village church.
© Meredith Mullins

I heard the clatter of children riding bicycles on the streets and the hum of Singer sewing machines stitching clothes and curtains. I felt the rumbling of the tram on the rails.

A rusted bike and sewing machine in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Metal and memories remain.
© Meredith Mullins

Like a WW II Stonehenge, remnants of the village rise up, standing defiantly against the sky even after 74 years.

Ruins of Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A WW II Stonehenge
© Meredith Mullins

There is a pervasive silence—a reverence—but plants poke through the empty windows and crumbling stones. Birds sing. There is life—and hope—even after so much death. And, surprisingly, there is forgiveness in the air.

A carpentry shop in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

An Oradour carpentry shop sprouts new growth.
© Meredith Mullins

How Does the Story End?

The end of this tragic story is not who was brought to trial for the atrocities and what punishment was assigned, because most of those responsible escaped retribution. And there can really be no justice for such inhumanity.

A mass grave in the center of Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

A mass grave in Oradour-sur-Glane
© Meredith Mullins

Robert Hébras, the only one of the survivors who is alive today, dedicates his memories to those throughout the world who have suffered intolerance, hatred, and violence at the hands of others. This, to me, seems the right path of cultural history.

The real end of the story is how remembering such an atrocity can hopefully guide the future.

The signs entering the ruins of Oradour-sur-Glane remind us to “Never forget.”

A Remember sign in Oradour-sur-Glane, an important part of the cultural history of WW II in France. (Image © Meredith Mullins.)

Remember . . . always
© Meredith Mullins

For more information visit the Oradour Memorial site or read the definitive books: The Tragedy Hour by Hour by Robert Hébras, Oradour sur Glane: A Vision of Horror by Guy Pauchou and Dr. Pierre Masfrand, and Oradour, The Final Verdict, by Douglas Hawes.

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Comments:

18 thoughts on “Oradour-sur-Glane: A Story Stopped in Time and Memory”

  1. Thank you, Meredith, for the images and words that bring this horrific atrocity to wider attention. As you suggest, it is important to remember Orodour sur Glane, with hope that Europe is spared such violence, inhumanity, rage and terror in the future.

    • Dear Ann,
      Thank you for your comments … and your hope for our future. I agree that we must bring such brutality (past and present) to the attention of all. It cannot become the norm, as it is in some parts of the world even today. We cannot close our eyes.

      Meredith

  2. I was amazed to see this
    I’ve been to Normandy several times and toured the dday areas on the channel but never thought to realize there may be several others areas that one should remember as well
    I haven’t travelled too far out of Paris other than a stop in province. It is interesting to learn of places such as this and to visualize them such as you have done
    It is extremely sad to see that the brutality of some parties can wipe out an entire village with only a few survivors
    Your pictures and narrative are heart rending and cause one to think of what is occurring these days
    Beaytufully done Meredith——-thank you

    • Thank you, Dee, for writing and for understanding the importance of this story. Even in towns close to Oradour, the Germans were on a brutal march. None quite so savage and all-encompassing as Oradour. We should never forget … and never, ever, let something like this happen again.

      Meredith

  3. How deeply moving, both your heartfelt account and your very touching photos. Bravo.
    Best,
    Pamela

    • Thank you, Pamela. It was very moving to be alone in the village early on a rainy morning and then to have the sun break through in the afternoon to provide a bit of hope for the world. I was glad to have spent two days in Oradour so I could experience the village in many different ways.

      Thank you for writing,

      Meredith

  4. Dear Meredith. When I finish writing it I will share my personal pilgrimage to the site where my father was killed in WWII
    Not nearly as brutal or up close as your account but was important for me to do
    Thank you for sharing another sad chapter of history we should never forget.

    • Dear Carolyn,

      I’m so sorry to hear you lost your father in WW II. Those soldiers were true heroes. They knew what their chances of survival were and still they went to battle for something greater than themselves. I cry every time I think about it.

      Thank you for writing. We will never forget.

      All best,

      Meredith

  5. Meredith,
    Thank you for this history lesson. As you note, I had not heard of this town and the sad fate of the townspeople, for all of the stories of cruelty during the occupation of so much of France.

    • Dear Jamie Sue,

      It is an important responsibility to share the story of Oradour and remind the world that such cruelty existed (and still exists). Thanks for writing and for sharing the story with others.

      All best,

      Meredith

  6. Meredith, thank you for your unflinching and moving account. The phrase “Andre Bardet 4 mois” is now and forever etched in my brain. That places where you, I, and countless others have experienced immense kindness could ever be visited by such cruelty is unfathomable, even as one confronts the reality. That your poignant images evoke the peaceable day-to-day life of Oradour even amid the evidence of heartless destruction, is a moving tribute to the community that was and a powerful reminder to respect the community that is–namely every single person with whom we share the fragile village that we call Earth.

    • Dear Joyce,

      You are such a master of words and of understanding the feelings that come when visiting a place like Oradour. Thank you for writing. And for reminding us all that we are responsible for our fragile village called Earth.

      All best,

      Meredith

    • It is surprising to me how many people have not heard this story. I think Americans, in particular, focus on the D-Day landing and how courageous that battle was … and important. However, remembering Oradour is important also. Especially in today’s world.

      Thank you for writing, Lin.

      All best,

      Meredith

  8. Meredith, thank you for such an interesting yet so sorrowful article. I never knew this story and am thankful for your reveal.

    • Dear Nuala,

      I am glad to have had the opportunity to share this story. I feel it’s important for everyone to hear. And, yes, it is truly heartbreaking. The tears came often as I walked through the ruins of the village. Seeing the remains of cafés and hotels and schools makes the tragedy all the more real. I highly recommend a visit.

      Thank you for writing.

      All best,

      Meredith

  9. Thank you for such a moving and tragic true story. Early in my nursing career, I worked with a French woman who lived through the German occupation. Her stories of survival are etched into my brain forever. Now your story and photos share the same place. War is not the answer.

    • Dear Lucinda,

      Thank you for sharing your experience. I, like you, really admire those who lived through such a difficult time and appreciate hearing the details. We feel the pain more deeply and know more surely that war is not the answer.

      Always remember,

      Meredith

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