The ancient art of Kushti wrestling
© Meredith Mullins

An Art “Of the Earth”

If you have run five miles, completed hundreds of pushups and squats, finished a long distance swim, and lifted a few sand bags and giant stones—all before your 6 am training session begins—you might have some of what it takes to become a Kushti wrestler.

You would also have to embrace the idea of showing your strength, endurance, and agility in a mud/clay pit that is the traditional sacred arena of this sport. This is gritty work . . . “of the earth.”

Grace, strength, agility, and endurance: a powerful combination
© Meredith Mullins

And you would, by the way, have to dedicate yourself to a life of discipline and austerity.

Does this sound appealing? Perhaps. Challenging? Definitely.

You would not find these tools at World Wrestling Entertainment (WWE) training.
© Meredith Mullins

The ancient art of Indian wrestling—called Kushti or Pehlwani—is a different approach to wrestling than the images that come to mind in America when “mud wrestling” is mentioned (bikini-clad mudwomen?).

It has more artistry than the WWE vision of superstars like Hulk Hogan or Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson throwing their opponents to the mat with a thud.

Kushti wrestling is about strength, stamina, and agility. But it is also a way of life connected to India’s cultural traditions.

A graceful dance of strength and strategy
© Meredith Mullins

The Philosophy of Kushti Wrestling

For thousands of years, the Kushti training centers in India, called akharas or akhadas, have attracted boys and men from all castes. It is one of the few places where everyone is equal.

Often, the call to be a wrestler is passed down from generation to generation. A boy as young as six can start training.

Early training for children who want a path to a better life
© Meredith Mullins

For some, it is a way out of poverty, a path to becoming a professional wrestler or securing a good job.

For some, it is a way to stay fit and take pride in the power of the body and a life of discipline.

For some, it is a way to pay tribute to the god Hanuman, the god of strength and energy.

The god Hanuman keeps watch over the akhara.
© Meredith Mullins

For all who are in training, it is not an easy life. The training is not just physical, but also requires discipline in all aspects of being. Alcohol, tobacco, drugs, and paan (beetle leaves that have psychoactive properties) are all forbidden.

The Kushti diet is restrictive and protein rich—almonds, milk, eggs, butter, fruit, vegetables, and sometimes mutton (although many wrestlers are vegetarian to further purify the body).

The Kushti diet must be rich in protein to support the physicality of the sport.
© Meredith Mullins

These kinds of foods are also expensive in India, which requires a real commitment from a Kushti wrestler (and often a “day job”).

Although it is not a requirement in the contemporary world of Kushti, most of the wrestlers are celibate, so that they can focus on the training. Many live in monastery-like space at the akharas. A simple life, with sleep at 8 pm.

Kushti training takes many forms.
© Meredith Mullins

The Training

Training begins early with a run, swim, and calisthenics. At the akhara, the training tools look like medieval weapons—all designed to build strength and flexibility.

Weapons or training tools? Only the Kushti wrestler knows for sure.
© Meredith Mullins

The heavy wooden clubs, called mugdars, build arm and shoulder muscles. The gada, a stone attached to a bamboo stick, is also a weapon of the god Hanuman. Although it is a muscle builder as well, it is intimidating just as it is. It can weigh from 10 to 130 pounds.

The gada can weigh up to 130 pounds—a tool that can definitely build upper body strength.
© Meredith Mullins

The nar is a hollow stone with a handle inside that gets lifted like an ancient trophy above the head.

None of these tools would be found in a modern gym, which makes the visual story of the akhara so rich with cultural traditions.

In addition, rope climbing, weightlifting, and work on the parallel bars are all part of the daily routine.

Rope climbing builds upper body strength.
© Meredith Mullins

The Wrestling

The rounds of Kushti in the hallowed pit begin at around 6 am, with wrestlers pairing off in practice rounds of about 25 minutes, under the watchful eye of their guru.

The arena is a spiritual place, and no one but the wrestlers are allowed in. The soil (from the banks of the Ganges) is mixed like a cake with Ayurvedic oils, buttermilk, turmeric, clay, ghee (butter), neem leaf, and red ochre.

The soil needs to be soft enough to avoid injury for the wrestlers.
© Meredith Mullins

Water is added to make sure the soil is soft enough to avoid injury to the wrestlers but gritty enough to give them traction in movement.

For the wrestlers, the soil is sacred. They begin their match by rubbing some on themselves and their opponent as a blessing. It is also thought to have healing properties.

The akhara soil has spiritual and healing powers.
© Meredith Mullins

No hitting, kicking, or slapping is allowed in Kushti. The goal is to take down the opponent and pin his shoulders and hips to the ground. There are no partial points, as in some forms of wrestling. It is all about the pin. Strength. Strategy. Agility. Endurance.

The akhara guru watches to give advice on technique.
© Meredith Mullins

After the morning training, the wrestlers often cool off in the soil and get an all-important body massage from fellow wrestlers or trainees.

A cold water shower after training
© Meredith Mullins

They then wash, brush their teeth with neem branches, and, more often than not, go off to work so that they can continue to support their quest as a modern-day warrior.

Brushing the teeth with neem tree branches
© Meredith Mullins

A Dying Heritage: The Somber “Oh, I See” Moment

Despite the graceful beauty and primal energy of Kushti wrestling—as well as its practice for nearly 3000 years—this art/sport is losing popularity among the young. Contemporary forms of wrestling and modern gyms are gaining ground.

The government also has reduced funding for Kushti akharas. The few remaining training centers are struggling to survive.

A dying heritage?
© Meredith Mullins

The spirituality and grace of Kushti raise it to levels beyond just a sport. It is a mysterious, unintentionally sensual dance, punctuated with feats of strength.

It is a way of life that incorporates mind, body, and spirit in the best possible way.

Guru Jwala Tiwari of the Siyaram Akhara
© Meredith Mullins

It is national heritage . . . on the brink of being lost forever.

I, for one, am hopeful that this cultural tradition lives on.

Thank you to Guru Jwala Tiwari of the Siyaram Akhara at Mullick Ghat in Kolkata and the gurus of the Cotton Street Akhara in Kolkata.

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